A few months ago we stayed in the sleepy village of Rodmell in East Sussex. Home to the famous writer Virginia Woolf. Walking through the village lanes we came upon her old home Monk's House, now owned by the National Trust. Sadly it was November and the house was closed for the winter. However just a short distance from the house was a footpath that led to the River Ouse.
Doing a little research we discovered the path followed the Ouse all the way to the town of Lewes, some five miles away. We picked a sunny day for our walk and set off early, planning to walk to Lewes and back. It was a very solitary walk with very few passers by. Just the train on the other side of the river, scooting back and forwards to Newhaven.
November sun was perfect, highlighting the many reed beds in this marshy land. Feathered wild life was less than I expected. A few cormorants and egrets along with the many gulls, along this tidal river that finds the sea near Newhaven.
The high embankments were perfect walking ground, lifting you above the landscape. I daresay a few years ago it would have been nigh on impossible to walk along this stretch of river. Sadly no sign of any river craft until we were almost upon Lewes and then they didn't look fit for purpose. In the past ships would have plied back and forwards along this stretch, taking goods to the port.
Now a peaceful oasis leading us to the equally quaint town of Lewes with its wealth of history.
Arriving in the town we headed through many of the ancient alleyways or twittens as they are called, through a park before reaching the medieval home owned by Anne of Cleves. The fourth wife of Henry Eighth, who managed to keep her head and divorce him instead. The house in Lewes was part of her settlement, although its not thought she lived there. It was certainly well worth the visit.
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| One of the many twittens or alleys in Lewes |
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| Anne Of Cleves House |
After a quick bowl of soup we headed back to Rodmell as the sun started its rapid descent. Enhancing the reed beds and giving an other worldly feel to the place, so steeped in history.
On our return home I began reading a little more about Virginia Woolf. It seems that she took her own life in this beautiful stretch of river in 1941. She would have walked along the same stretch of footpath from her home to the river. A very sobering and sad thought.
Certainly a lovely part of the world and well worth a visit if you are passing.
Barbara xxx
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